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Diamond Quality |
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Quality and value for the money are more important
now than they have ever been when it comes to the important things we
buy. A diamond is one of the largest purchases most people make, behind
a home and automobile. Just as with any major purchase, you must
understand exactly what you are purchasing, and what makes diamonds that
may appear similar, have vastly different values.
The Gemological Institute of America (GIA)
has established a system for grading diamonds, commonly known as the
four c's. This system, when used accurately
and completely, is the best way to assure the quality and value of a
diamond. It is worth noting that this system can only be accurately
applied when the diamond is loose, thus the reason behind
McGivern Diamonds policy of only selling
loose diamonds.
It is possible to send a diamond in to the GIA,
and they will grade the diamond. This is what is referred to as a
GIA certified diamond. The simple fact is
all jewelers cannot sell the same diamond for the best price, but they
still must make it appear that way. Thus many other certificates exist
that are far from accurate, and it appears you are getting the same
grade diamond, for much less money. In the end, the real question is,
just because some certificate states the diamond is a certain grade,
will GIA agree? Most likely not, thus these
other certificates can be discounted quite substantially, depending on
how inaccurate they are. Wherever you end up buying, stick with a
GIA certified stone, they are the industry
standard.
There are many other grading systems that are used to represent diamond
quality. However, it is the GIA system that
is recognized in the diamond industry. The GIA
is a non-profit organization that has no interest where you purchase
your stone. Unfortunately, too many other so called "independent" labs
are for profit, with the jeweler's best interests in mind, not the
consumers. |
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Four C's
CARAT WEIGHT
Carat is
actually a measurement of weight, NOT size. However, it should be
relative to size. One carat is divided into 100 points. Two diamonds of
equal quality can have vastly different values depending on their cut,
color and clarity. This is illustrated in the two diamonds below.
Carat weight is the easiest of the four c's
to determine, however the diamond MUST be loose. Too many jewelers
approximate carat weight, for instance, when you buy a 1/2 carat
diamond, which you assume to be 50 points, you may actually be getting
less than that. Many store sell as low as 45 points, and represent is as
"approximately" a 1/2 carat. There is nothing wrong with buying a
"light" 1/2 carat, however the cost is
significantly less. You should know that is what you are buying, and pay
accordingly.

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CUT
By cut, we are referring to two things, the first being the shape of the
diamond. By this we mean round, marquise, pear, oval, princess, emerald,
oval, heart or trillion. Many people think fancy shaped diamonds cost
more. In most cases, it is exactly the opposite. Many fancy shape
diamonds actually cost less than a round.
When a gemologist talks about cut, what is really being referred to
is quality of proportions. The fact is many
diamonds today are not cut as well as they could be. Many cutters choose
to sacrifice some of the diamond's beauty to achieve a stone that is a
larger carat weight. Cut, more than any other quality
aspect, gives the diamond its sparkle. A
diamond gets its brilliance and scintillation by cutting and polishing
the diamond facets to allow the maximum amount of light that enters
through its top to be reflected and dispersed back, also through its
top.
As you can see below, when all the angles are correct, the light that
enters is dispersed back through the diamonds top facets. When a stone
is cut too shallow or too deep, that light that enters through the top
is allowed to escape through the bottom and does not allow the maximum
beauty of the diamond to be realized. The reason these poorly cut
diamonds are sold in stores is cost. The wholesale
cost of these diamonds are significantly cheaper than a well
proportioned diamond. Remember, just because two diamonds have the same
weight, does not mean they are the same size.

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COLOR
Diamonds
come naturally in almost every color of the rainbow,
however most people are concerned with diamonds in the white range.
Along with cut, this "C" is also very important in determining the
overall beauty of the diamond. Color starts with the letter D, being the
whitest, or best, and goes down the letter Z, being more yellowish. It
is the lack of color, or whiteness in a diamond that allows the light to
pass effortlessly through the stone and disperse that beauty back to the
observer. Color is not so much white versus yellow, as the chart tends
to indicate, it is more light versus dark. A
white diamond will look very clean, crisp, and brilliant, with a lot of
pizzazz. A yellow diamond will not really look yellow, as it will look
darker and dirty, without nearly the same brilliance. These are
differences that you can clearly see, as you do not need to be a
gemologist to see these differences. |
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CLARITY
Clarity refers to how many
flaws, or inclusions, are in the diamond. In most cases, clarity has
very little to do with the beauty of the diamonds, rather it effects how
the diamond looks under the microscope. To determine a diamonds clarity
grade, it must be examined loose, under 10x
magnification by a gemologist. Whatever minute inclusions there
may be make every diamond unique. These are nature's fingerprints and in
most cases do not mar the diamond's beauty nor endanger in durability.
Without high magnification, these flaws are invisible. However, the
fewer inclusions, the rarer your diamond will be.
Generally, if a diamond is SI-1 or above, it is flawless to the naked
eye (VS-2 for emerald, princess and radiant cuts). If there is even a
tiny inclusion visible to the unaided eye, the stone is usually graded
an SI-2 or I-1. It is extremely important to view the diamond loose for
clarity grading, as it is very easy to set an I-1 diamond, and by
concealing flaws in setting, make the diamond appear to be much better.
There is nothing wrong with this, as long as this is represented
accurately and you pay according.
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